Saturday, February 23, 2013
Hamentashen
Hamentashen is a traditional Jewish pastry
made for the holiday of Purim. In the Purim story (called the Megillah, there
is a malevolent character named Hamen, who wishes to destroy all the Jews (a common
theme in history unfortunately), and he wears a three-cornered hat. Hamentashen
means “Hamen’s hat” and it is a triangular pastry. My Grandma Wachspress’s recipe
for hamentashen, provided below in both a wheat version and a gluten-free
version, uses the Hungarian Jewish kipfel dough. To make the hamentashen, first
you prepare the kipfel.
For the kipfel:
½ lb. butter (2 sticks) softened
½ lb. cream cheese softened
2 c. sifted flour (use whole wheat flour or,
for a gluten-free pastry, use brown rice flour)
½ tsp. baking powder
2 tbsp. honey
¼ tsp. salt
For the hamentashen filling:
1 c. poppy seeds
¼ tsp. vanilla
1 egg
1/3 c. honey
1 tbsp. grated lemon rind
¼ c. raisins
To make the kipfel dough, blend the
ingredients well, working the butter and cream cheese into the flour. This
dough has so much butter and cream cheese in it that it falls apart unless it’s
chilled. Once you have it blended into a ball, put the kipfel in the
refrigerator for 45 minutes or the freezer for 20 minutes before attempting to
work with it. When you roll it out, only roll out half the dough at first,
while leaving the other half in the refrigerator to stay chilled. Then roll out
the other half of the dough.
While the dough is chilling, put the hamentashen
filling ingredients (except for the egg,
leave that out for now) into a food processor and whirl them up for a couple of
minutes. Honestly, the traditional way to make hamentashen requires that you
grind the poppy seeds into a paste with a mortar and pestle, which Grandma W.
did. I have done this and it makes the filling wonderfully flavorful; but I
confess that I rarely have the patience to grind poppy seeds. Whirling them in
the food processor works well enough for me, but for the gourmet version you
can get out your mortar and pestle and go for it. After you whirl everything
but the egg for a couple of minutes, then add the egg and whirl the filling some
more to mix in the egg.
When the kipfel is chilled, roll half the
dough out and cut it into 3-inch circles. I suggest using a drinking glass as
your cookie cutter. For the gluten-free version, put a piece of parchment (wax
paper works OK, just not quite as well as parchment) on the cutting board
before you roll out the dough to prevent sticking. Rice flour dough tends to be
more gooey, fragile, and harder to work with than wheat flour dough.
Drop a teaspoon of hamentashen filling into
the middle of each round and fold up three edges to form a triangle (Hamen’s
hat). Pinch the corners firmly to secure the dough and to prevent it from
unfolding in the oven. You should be able to still see a little bit of the
filling (about as much as the size of your pinky fingernail) in the middle of
the pastry, but be sure to fold the kipfel tight or it will open up and flatten
out while baking.
Bake the hamentashen on a greased cookie
sheet at 375º for 20
minutes or until done. The gluten-free version needs to
bake for a little longer than the wheat version – 25 minutes should do it.
It’s challenging to use up all the dough
and all the filling in the hamentashen. I finish up this recipe by rolling out
the last piece of dough into an oval and filling it with the last of the
hamentashen filling, folding it over on itself and baking it for 20-25 minutes,
then slicing it up (see my rugelach recipe).
Eat well, be well, live deliciously!
Rugelach
This
version of the famous rugelach is not the fancy kind you find in a New York
deli, but believe me when I tell you that this pastry is one of the seven
wonders of the Jewish world. This is a simple way of making rugelach that has
been passed down in my family. These rugelach are not individually rolled, as
you shall see. The secret is in the Hungarian kipfel dough, which my Grandma
Wachspress made with cream cheese and butter. I also offer
you a gluten-free kipfel version. For rugelach you first need to make the kipfel
dough so the following recipe is broken into two stages. First the dough, then
assembling the rugelach.
Ingredients
KIPFEL
½ lb. butter (2 sticks) softened
½ lb. cream cheese softened
2 c. sifted flour (use whole wheat flour or,
for a gluten-free pastry, use brown rice flour)
½ tsp. baking powder
2 tbsp. honey
¼ tsp. salt
RUGELACH “FILLING”
Honey (indeterminate amount, see
directions)
Cinnamon (indeterminate amount, see
directions)
1/3 c. chopped walnuts (optional)
1/3 c. chopped raisins (optional)
Directions
To make the kipfel dough, blend the
ingredients well, working the butter and cream cheese into the flour. This
dough has so much butter and cream cheese in it that it falls apart unless it’s
chilled. Once you have it blended into a ball, put the kipfel in the
refrigerator for 45 minutes or the freezer for 20 minutes before attempting to
work with it. When you roll it out, only roll out half the dough at first,
while leaving the other half in the refrigerator to stay chilled. Then roll out
the other half of the dough.
Roll the kipfel (first half, then second
half) out in an oval shape about 5 inches wide and a foot or more long. Try to
keep the width as uniform as possible. The kipfel should be about ¼-inch thick.
Spread the honey (generously) on the dough with a knife, covering to within
about ½-inch of the edges. Sprinkle the cinnamon liberally on top of the honey.
Then distribute the walnuts and/or raisins if desired. Gently roll the dough up
like a rug, the long way. This is why we call it rugelach, which means
something like “little-rolled-up-thing” in Yiddish.
For the gluten-free version, put a piece of
parchment (wax paper works OK, just not quite as well as parchment) on the
cutting board before you roll out the dough to prevent sticking. Rice flour
dough tends to be more gooey, fragile, and harder to work with than wheat flour
dough.
Bake the rugelach on a greased cookie sheet
at 375º for 20
minutes or until brown and done. The gluten-free
version needs to bake for a little longer than the wheat version – 25 minutes
should do it. After
taking the roll out of the oven, put it on a cutting board or plate and allow
it to cool for a few minutes, then slice it in 1-inch-wide segments with a
sharp knife.
Eat well, be well, live deliciously!
Kipfel Dough (Hungarian Style)
This standard, rich Hungarian Jewish pastry
dough can be used for rugelach, hamentashen, cookies, and other treats; and
yes, I can offer you a gluten-free version. Here is the straight up recipe for
the dough, right out of my grandmother’s kitchen. Check out my rugelach and
hamentashen recipes for delicious ways to use this dough to make traditional
Jewish pastries.
Ingredients
½ lb. butter (2 sticks) softened
½ lb. cream cheese softened
2 c. sifted flour (use whole wheat flour or,
for a gluten-free pastry, use brown rice flour)
½ tsp. baking powder
2 tbsp. honey
¼ tsp. salt
Directions
Blend the ingredients well, working the
butter and cream cheese into the flour. This dough has so much butter and cream
cheese in it that it falls apart unless it’s chilled. Once you have it blended
into a ball, put the kipfel in the refrigerator for 45 minutes or the freezer
for 20 minutes before attempting to work with it. When you roll it out, only roll
out half the dough at first, while leaving the other half in the refrigerator
to stay chilled. Then roll out the other half of the dough.
Once it’s chilled, this dough is quite
versatile. See my rugelach and hamentashen recipes. You can transform this
dough into cookies by rolling it out (about ¼ inch thick) and using cookie cutters
or a glass (for rounds) to shape the cookies. To sweeten the cookies, brush
them with honey and sprinkle cinnamon on top or spread jam on them. Bake the
cookies on a greased cookie sheet at 375º for 20 minutes (until they brown and are
no longer doughy).
For the gluten-free version, put a piece of
parchment (wax paper works OK, just not quite as well as parchment) on the
cutting board before you roll out the dough to prevent sticking. Rice flour
dough tends to be more gooey, fragile, and harder to work with than wheat flour
dough. The gluten-free version needs to bake for a little longer than the wheat
version – 25 minutes should do it.
Eat well, be well, live deliciously!
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